Potato Chowder

Potato Chowder with Cheddar Cheese

4 ounces slab bacon, rind removed and cut into 1/3 -inch dice

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 large onion cut into 3/4 -inch dice

3 fresh sage leaves, finely chopped

1 teaspoon Coleman’s dry English mustard

1 1/2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 3/4 -inch dice

3 cups chicken stock

1 1/2 cups heavy cream

Freshly ground black pepper

Kosher or sea salt

6 ounces sharp white or smoked Cheddar cheese, grated

Tabasco sauce (optional)

4 scallions, thinly sliced

Heat a 4-quart heavy pot over low heat and add diced bacon. Once it has rendered a few tablespoons of fat, increase the heat to medium and cook until the bacon is crisp. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon of the bacon fat, leaving the bacon in the pot.

Add butter, onion and sage and saute, stirring occasionally for 6 to 8 minutes, until onion is tender. Stir in dry mustard and cook for 1 minute more.

Add potatoes and stock. Turn up heat, cover, bring to a boil and cook vigorously for about 12 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender but still firm in the center. With your spoon, smash a few potatoes against side of the pot and cook for 2 minutes more to release their starch.

Remove chowder from the heat and stir in cream. Season with the pepper and a little bit of salt, as the cheese will add more salt when it is added later. Let it sit at room temperature for up to an hour, allowing the flavors to meld. Reheat chowder slowly over low heat until hot, but has not reached a simmer. Gradually stir in cheese and continue to stir constantly until all the cheese has melted into the velvety broth. Taste and season with hot sauce and more salt if needed. Let it come just to a simmer, then immediately remove it from the heat. Ladle into cups or small bowls and top each with sliced scallions.

Serves 6 as a first course.

From “50 Chowders” by Jasper White